Friday 25 May 2018

Looking for value - case study on Micron

The following is a sharing on an approach to identifying market opportunities, and should not be regarded as a stock recommendation. Please do your own due diligence (DYODD) before making any investment decisions.


Micron Technology Inc. (MU)

One of my favourite early success stories when I began trading USD-denominated stocks is that of Micron Technology. I was no stranger this semiconductor company, as it is one of the major manufacturers of memory products (alongside Hynix, Crucial, Kingston and others) that I had come across back in the days when I was into DIY PC stuff.

It was around early 2016 when I first looked at Micron stock. I remember forming the quick impression that the stock was possibly undervalued, simply from its P/E ratio. I did not have the impression that it was a poorly-run company, and I felt that with memory-intensive products like mobile phones and other smart devices becoming increasingly proliferated globally, there was very little downside.

chart from Yahoo Finance

If you look at the above chart, you see evidence of the cyclical nature of the semiconductor industry. Read a bit more from online literature and forum discussions, and you'll appreciate how this is due to certain characteristics of this industry. During periods of strong demand, semiconductor firms are likely to undertake large capital-intensive investments to build new plants and increase production capacity. However, these take around a few years to materialise, and by then, the market conditions may have changed, leading to over-capacity and consequently depressed prices. The lagged response of new supply to meet (past) demand leads to the volatile cycles reflected in Micron's share price - think of what would happen if Uber's surge pricing worked like it did today, but that any additional cars deployed were only able to hit the roads 6 hours after the surge started, for whatever reason.

But in 2016, I looked ahead and found it hard to believe that the strong demand for memory products would abate. While mobile phone penetration could begin to taper, there were many new products (e.g. smart cars) that could easily take their place in terms of needing memory chips of various kinds. Yet things just looked lacklustre for Micron stock, so I probably thought to myself at that time, "how bad can it get?" and decided to start a position.

Here's a brief chronology, up to September 2017:

  • February 2016: Entered at $11.30
  • May 2016: MU went down even further, and I picked up more at $10.25 (you could say I was thinking of dollar-cost averaging, I honestly can't recall - but the sharp readers would pick up that I was actually 10% down from when I first entered at $11.30, and I was now putting more money into the position...)
  • June 2016: Stock recovered to $13.85 and I sold. Watched in awe as the stock climbed thereafter
  • May 2017: Felt left out of the game, re-entered at $27
  • June 2017: Took profit at $32 (around 18% gain)
  • July 2017: Re-entered around $29
  • September 2017: Took profit at $35 (around 20% gain)
Today, the stock trades close to $60. I'm well aware that if I had stayed the course from when the stock was trading in the low teens, I would be looking at a 400% to 500% return. Instead, I merely picked up the 'scraps' along the way. But those were some helluva valuable scraps - giving me a few dozen times the return I would have gotten if I had left the money in a bank account, and still a few times better than the best CPF interest rate available.

I'm happy that I made money, but it's also apparent that my preference for taking profit quickly led to periods of time out of market during which I gave up significant gains while the money was sitting around probably earning next to zilch interest. Especially in a volatile market, there is an overwhelming tendency to trade rather than to invest. Trading is kind of exhilarating, but unless you can make your transactions with very low fees, the happiest person is probably going to be your broker. Also, if your portfolio comprises a more than a dozen stocks, it is next to impossible to keep up with all the market on-goings, unless one is doing this full-time.

Regardless of the time horizon of your investment (intra-day returns all the way to multi-decade) and how you end up executing it, I think there are certain core principles that the example above elucidates. I highlight what I think are the three key takeaways that can apply to any and every situation:
  1. Understand the product you are investing in. In the internet age, there is an incredible amount of resources, opinions, reports and what-not around to absorb. Supplement that with your own experience and observations where possible. I started a position in Panera Bread because I frankly thought their offerings made a lot of sense for an increasingly health-conscious North American population with a moderate-to-high level of disposable income. (Too bad I didn't hold on until PNRA was acquired at a significant premium!)
  2. Look for value... There are simple metrics like P/E ratio, Price-to-NAV etc. that can be used to compare across firms in the same industry. I previously applied this to American Airlines when it was trading at a steep discount to its competitors (despite a well-executed merger with US Airways), and that worked well - when Warren Buffett subsequently added to his position in AAL, I was happy to benefit from the positive externalities of his halo effect!
  3. ...But only in good companies. The quote attributed to Buffett, "It's far better to buy a wonderful company at a fair price than a fair company at a wonderful price" is self-explanatory.
In my experience, I have found it a lot easier to identify potential investment opportunities in US markets compared to those listed in Singapore, because the offerings in the latter are much more limited. Still, I think the principles above are pretty much universal, so I suggest that you bear them in mind the next time you gear up to make an investment decision! 

Sunday 20 May 2018

Rethinking the CPF

For many Singaporeans, the Central Provident Fund (CPF) Scheme is something of a black box. CPF members are broadly aware that every month, a certain percentage of their salary gets whisked away into their CPF, not to be seen until retirement. They may also know that the amount contributed to their individual CPF gets allocated into the Ordinary Account (OA), Special Account (SA), and Medisave Account (MA) based on a certain formula, and that the CPF currently pays pretty generous risk-free interest rates of 2.5% for OA and 4% for SA and MA.

(Did you know that CPF's interest rate calculation works quite differently from a typical bank savings account? You will get a little bit more in a bank savings account that pays 2.5% compared to the CPF OA. For details why, read Wilfred's Ling post here. In a nutshell: no interest-on-interest, and CPF uses a "monthly lowest balance" concept rather than Average Daily Balance.)

And most Singaporeans will also know that while the CPF Scheme was originally intended to safeguard retirement savings, it also has been a key pillar in supporting homeownership, especially for many first-time homeowners.

Some discussions have emerged following a recent suggestion by economist Walter Theseira that the policy allowing the use of an individual's CPF monies for property purchase should be discontinued. Previously, I would have concurred with this suggestion. But after much further thought, my opinion has evolved substantially , and I explain this in detail below.

Before: CPF as a retirement safeguard

With constant rhetoric regarding our country's ageing population, the need to save for one's retirement, and the increasing life expectancy of Singaporeans, compulsory contributions via the CPF Scheme is a sensible way to set aside retirement funds.

I hence found it worrying that many Singaporeans use a significant proportion of their CPF OA monies to fund property purchase. While this could have reaped sizeable returns in the past (when housing prices grew very quickly), I felt that the future would pan out very differently, especially considering that the majority of housing in Singapore is on 99-year leases and hence should behave akin to a 99-year depreciating asset.

The fact that many homeowners reaped significant returns on their investment led to a widely-held belief that buying residential property (especially a Build-To-Order HDB flat) was a surefire road to prosperity. This belief arose from a "perfect storm" of sorts, where property prices were on the up-trend in general in the 1990s and 2000s, and the Government's introduction of the Selective En-bloc Redevelopment Scheme (SERS) in 1995 gave homeowners the impression that the Government would step in to intervene before the 99-year leases expired (at least for public housing).

A key turning point came during the 20 January 2014 Parliament session, where MP Gerald Giam asked a question on what will be the value of an HDB flat once it reaches the end of its 99-year lease. Then-Minister for National Development Khaw Boon Wan's reply:
"Like all leasehold properties, HDB flats will revert to HDB, the landowner, upon expiry of their leases. HDB will in turn surrender the land to the State." (for the full Q&A, refer to the Hansard)
This left no doubt that the value of an HDB flat (and, by extension, any other leasehold property) will be zero at the end of its lease. Presumably, the value of such property should begin to approach zero at some point during it lease, but this was opposite to what could be observed among historical residential resale market transactions .

There remained a lingering sentiment among Singaporeans that the Government would still step in at some point and do something, as there was no way that the Government would kick owners of HDB flats out of their homes, even at the end of the leases, as such action would incur extreme political cost and risk of political upheaval (unthinkable!). The idea simply felt too contradictory to the homeownership narrative indoctrinated into most Singaporeans from a young age through National Education programmes. SERS, which gave owners of ageing HDB flats the opportunity to relocate into brand-new HDB flats, looked like the solution to this quandry. Given the not-insignificant windfalls that SERS projects bestowed upon its fortunate recipients (partly due to Government policy to renumerate affected SERS projects at values comparable to market rates), there even emerged a group of prospectors whose key goal was to identify potential SERS sites, for speculative property transactions.

Fast forward to March 2017. In the MND Singapore blog, Minister Lawrence Wong bravely tackled the bull by the horns. His pronouncements - that (i) a strict selection criteria is used for SERS, and (ii) the vast majority of flats are not likely to undergo SERS - finally stirred a broader realisation among the home-owning population that 99-year leases are what they are.

This year, serious discussions have been given media limelight, and the plight of affected homeowners in Lor 3 Geylang (who will be asked to leave in 2020) added fuel to the fire. Many who once held sanguine views on the sacred cow of homeownership despite dwindling residential leases may have finally become more attuned to the realities.

With this thinking, I was staunchly of the view that the CPF Scheme, having been set up for retirement purposes, ought not to be intertwined with property purchase. After all, those who use their CPF monies for property purchase are required to pay back accrued interest upon sale of the property. This meant the homeowner would "owe" CPF 2.5% of interest per year,  compounded over time. Could the value of leasehold property appreciate at 2.5% per year? Does this not contradict the expected behaviour of a 99-year depreciating asset? To me, current policy permitting the use of CPF monies for property purchase would potentially lead to future retirement inadequacy, and ought to be reviewed from first principle.

The Re-think: A new CPF Housing Account?

When Walter Theseira suggested that Singaporeans should not be allowed to use CPF monies for property purchase, it seemed conceptually aligned to my prevailing thinking at that time. However, while I agreed with his idea in principle, I felt that it would be politically untenable to actually implement it. I thus brainstormed ideas on how policy wonks could actually carry out such a policy change without too much public backlash.

The idea I came up with was to establish a new CPF account, which I will refer to as the Housing Account (HA). Existing alongside the OA, SA and MA, the HA would receive a certain amount of monies from the member's CPF contribution, and the CPF member would be allowed to utilise the full balance of the HA for property purchase.

Creating yet another CPF account type would no doubt be confusing for most laypeople (in any case, making things easily-comprehensible isn't a key priority of policymakers, judging from the past), but it would afford the Government flexibility in determining policy such as (i) proportion of CPF contributions allocated to the HA, and (ii) the conditions governing the use of HA. For example, to encourage homeownership, they could set the HA allocation to be higher for young adults (and lower the allocation rate of the OA, SA, or MA accordingly), and then reverse it for older Singaporeans. The HA interest rate could be identical to the OA interest rate, leaving CPF members no worse off than before. But most importantly, by performing a gradual adjustment to the HA policy over time, the Government could potentially guide towards progressively smaller HA allocations, thus decreasing the proportion of CPF members' monies permitted for use in property purchase. Then maybe in two decades' time, the Government could do away with the HA altogether, and voila, CPF monies are no longer allowed to be used for property purchase.

Further catalysts: "Is 2.5% good enough?" and "Why does HDB drain my OA?"

Very recently, I undertook a fundamental re-look of my own portfolio and capital allocation, which led to me changing my view of a 2.5% risk-free interest rate from "quite good" to "not good enough". (For more details, see my earlier post.)

Because of this, I began to question the wisdom of leaving money in the OA to earn 2.5% per annum - even though many CPF members do precisely this. I had previously done a CPF transfer of my OA to SA, to benefit from the higher interest rate of 4% (5% on the first $60k). It dawned upon me that the bona fide retirement vehicle within the CPF is actually the SA, and that the restrictions on withdrawing funds from this account is in line with such a purpose.

I began to wonder how I should revise my view of the purpose of the OA, when over lunch with a friend, I was reminded of something that came to my attention a while ago. At that time, it had struck me as odd - the current policy where, if a HDB buyer chooses to take a HDB loan (instead of a bank loan), he/she is required to wipe out their entire OA balance before using cash. From HDB's website:
Use of CPF savings
If you take an HDB housing loan to buy or take over an ownership of a flat, you will have to use all the savings in your CPF Ordinary Account for the purchase or takeover before an HDB housing loan is granted for the remaining amount.
Given that the interest rate on a HDB loan is 2.6% (0.1% higher than the CPF OA interest rate), while interest rates for bank loans - where you don't have to wipe out your OA monies - is lower at around 2%, this felt like a rather strange policy. On one hand, CPF monies are supposedly intended for retirement, while on the other hand, the Government's own policy mandates those who take HDB loans to drain out their retirement funds (to buy a 99-year depreciating asset) before any cash is used. Hmmm.

Now: A revised perspective of what the purposes of the OA and SA are 

And it then dawned upon me:
This CPF Housing Account idea already exists today - in the guise of the Ordinary Account!
This was a paradigm shift and I had to shed certain preconceived notions that the OA is an integral part of "retirement planning", but once I did that, it became a lot clearer to me.

Here's what I now think:

  • The Special Account is the real heavy-lifter for retirement planning. The 4% interest rate (5% on the first $60k) is pretty good, and compounding will bear fruit. But most young adults might not pay a lot of attention to the SA because (i) most of our CPF contribution goes to our OA instead, and (ii) we can't do much with our SA beyond some highly-restrictive CPF Investment Scheme options.
  • The Ordinary Account should not be perceived as a retirement account, but treated more like cash. Well, HDB and CPF apparently concur that it makes sense to mandate HDB buyers who take HDB loans to drain the full balance of the OA, so why should this not apply to other groups who take bank loans for property? In any case, the OA interest rate of 2.5% is not very attractive if you really want to set aside funds for retirement. If you are planning ahead for retirement and don't foresee needing your OA funds, you'd be better off making the irreversible transaction from OA to SA as early as possible, and benefit from the compounding.
  • The Medisave Account is, well, what it is. I honestly don't know much about it so I can't really comment, but its usage is highly-prescribed and there's no option to invest it as far as I know. So you're stuck with 4% interest rate (pretty good) and just hope that you don't have to tap on it till you're a lot older.
My revised view also means that I no longer agree with Walter Theseira's proposal, but more because of semantic reasons than actual ideological differences.

Implications & Conclusion

So what does this mean for CPF members? Here's my two cents, but depending on your financial situation, your priorities and objectives may be different.


  • If you are not cash-strapped, top up your SA with your OA funds. (Other sites cover some reasons why you should or should not.) Currently, the first $60k of CPF monies enjoy an additional 1% of interest, but only $20k of your OA can benefit from this. 
    • If you have $45k in your OA, $9k in your SA and $6k in your MA (total $60k), you are not earning the 1% bonus on the full $60k. You are only earning it on 20+9+6= $35k. 
    • If you top up $25k from your OA to your SA, this $25k earns 5% total interest instead of 2.5%, and the difference will be sizeable over time due to compounding.
  • Consider how you want to use your OA monies
    • This is very dependent on individual preference. Given that CPF Investment Scheme requires setting up a CPF Investment Account with recurring custodian fees, I am not very keen on the CPF-IS. I hope that a new player will come in an shake up this market segment, but given its barriers to entry, I think it is unlikely, so the banks can continue to charge what they like.
    • If you use OA for property purchase, consider carefully the prevailing interest rate environment in relation to the CPF interest rate. If your property loan is above 2.5%, you probably want to use CPF OA monies to service the loan, since you will be worse-off if you use cash
    • You may also use CPF OA monies for education
    • If you have no use for the CPF OA monies, it may be worth using the OA to top up the SA. You'll jump from 2.5% to 4% (or 5%, see earlier example), which is not small. You want the compounding to start earlier rather than later, for it to work its magic.
The key change here is viewing the SA as the retirement vehicle rather than the combined OA+SA as a retirement vehicle. The big unanswered question is, how much does one need for retirement? Without an answer to this question, it is difficult to decide how much to set aside the SA. 

At least for CPF monies, one way is to look at the trend in the CPF Minimum Sum/Full Retirement Sum. Although it was promised in 2014 that the Minimum Sum (then $161,000) would not increase, the direct replacement of the Minimum Sum is the Full Retirement Sum and it has gone up to $181,000 for those turning 55 in 2020. 

I turn 55 in 2044, so there's a good many years to go. From the looks of it, it will almost certainly be more than $250,000. For illustration, based on a 2.5% annual rate of increase, we're looking at almost $330k if the $181k figure is extrapolated by 24 time periods. That's a princely sum compared to my meagre CPF balances today. It just means that it's even more important to let compound growth do what it needs to do, and that 2.5% on the OA monies is probably not good enough. Got to strive for more robust returns!

Saturday 19 May 2018

Starting off

The impetus for creating this blog was a startling realisation that I had pretty much been doing it all wrong (despite thinking that I was doing, at least, "quite okay").

I had been diligent in managing my finances, and I regularly read articles from various websites (such as Investment Moats, IFA.sg, SG Budget Babe and many more), so I knew the basics - spend within your means, save for a rainy day, invest and let compounding do its magic. I also kept abreast of the latest bank account and credit card offerings, with a keen eye on maximizing every dollar saved as well as every dollar spent.

I also started trading stocks quite early, initially only on the SGX, and subsequently branching out to the US market. As I went along, I graduated from using DBS Vickers, to Standard Chartered (lower fees), to TDAmeritrade Asia, and eventually to Interactive Brokers. I made some good buys, and these returned anything from 10 to 20 percent. I was pleased, and I felt that if I could do this year after year, the compounding effect of 10 percent CAGR would give me a comfortable nest egg in no time.

The key missing piece in the puzzle: capital allocation.

When I joined the workforce, OCBC had just launched the OCBC360 savings account. Coupled with the OCBC365 credit card that offered between 5 to 7 percent cashback for dining, OCBC's products were very attractive. I think the OCBC360 interest rate capped out at 3.25% (upon meeting certain conditions), and was applicable up to the first $50k. I remember thinking to myself that $1,625 in annual interest was pretty good, with zero risk.

Subsequently, UOB launched the UOB One account, Bank of China had the SmartSaver account, and DBS revised their Multiplier account. As OCBC pulled back some of the benefits of OCBC360, it became a delicate dance of trying to figure out which among this new generation of higher-interest bank account packages was most suitable for me. I ended up using all of these 4 banks' offerings at different points in time. After all, since this higher interest was "free money", why leave it in a regular account offering a measly 0.05% interest rate, right?

As adult life became real, so too did "old people" stuff like retirement planning and all. It was a frequent conversation topic, sometimes among peers/colleagues, and frequently at family gatherings. Who doesn't go through a Chinese New Year period without some conversation about optimising CPF or getting the best loan rates*? We all have that relative who will lecture at end about how CPF OA's 2.5% risk-free interest rate is very good, and therefore we "young persons" shouldn't all be like Roy and diss the CPF all the time...

*Footnote: Bear in mind that if these are older relatives, they are likely to be speaking from a very different viewpoint, since they are likely to be homeowners who benefited from the great run-up of property prices in the two decades preceding 2015.

Amidst such a backdrop, I developed a certain mindset towards my investment goals. In a nutshell:

  • CPF 2.5% risk-free interest rate is pretty good
  • Therefore, 2.x% interest rate offered by some of the new-generation savings accounts is quite good too
  • Must max out the limit of such accounts
  • And hey, this cash will also serve as "emergency fund" right? Kill two birds with one stone! 

I also thought I was doing pretty good, because with leftover cash, I invested in stocks on a regular basis (in line with all the advice for young adults), and I was getting 10 to 20 percent returns on some of those investments!

Recently, I put everything together in order to get a better sense of my portfolio allocation, between cash, stocks and bonds. I was quite shocked at the resulting pie chart:


Because of how favourable I viewed the higher-interest accounts, I unknowingly ended up with almost two-thirds of my portfolio (excluding CPF, since there are relatively strict restrictions on use of CPF funds) in cash and equivalents. Sure, a fair bit of that was earning 2.x% interest, but in the broader sense, this was way more cash-heavy than I thought I was, and than I needed to be.

Just to illustrate with a simple example:

Assume a total portfolio size of $100k, and $20k in stocks while the remainder in cash.
Say this person is an astute investor, and achieves 15% return on the stock component ($3k). In the meantime, the other $80k is earning 1% interest ($0.8k). In overall terms, the total weighted growth of the portfolio is $3.8k out of $100k, or only 3.8%.

3.8% return is okay, but it is certainly not comparable to 15%. Anyone achieving 15% returns tends to get a bit dizzy, but fails to recognise that this is not an overall portfolio performance. And hence the importance of capital allocation.

I'm still figuring out my next steps, but I have learnt a few key lessons which I thought useful to share:

  1. Ask if 2.5% is really a satisfactory rate of return. Comparing this rate against the typical bank account interest rate of 0.05% or short term fixed deposit rates is misleading - don't be fooled by the red herring. Look at the 2.5% figure against inflation instead. I'd say for a young adult, 2.5% is not satisfactory, even though it is risk-free. The CPF SA rate of 4% is more satisfactory, but the SA comes with severely-curtailed flexibility.
  2. Be aware of the tendency to want to "maximise" the balances on higher-interest accounts. Today, OCBC360 offers the higher interest rate on up to $70k balance. Does it really make sense to max out this $70k? If OCBC increased the figure to $150k, would it make sense to want to park such a large amount of cash there, assuming you had it?
  3. Impose discipline on your emergency funds. Estimating how much emergency funds you need is not straightforward, precisely because it is supposed to cater to the "unknown unknowns".  Most of us will feel that more is better, and may also think that any excess emergency funds can be redeployed in the future (e.g. for property, car or education expenses). Avoid this, because each dollar of excess emergency funds set aside is a dollar not invested. Set a target, for example, a fixed amount say $20k, or six months of income, or six months of expenditure. Large expenses like property, car or education expenses should be planned for, and should not be mixed with the emergency funds.
  4. Put together your portfolio composition. Action can only occur after Awareness. I daresay most people don't have a good picture of their overall composition, even though they might have a rough sense of the balances in their bank accounts/broker accounts. This step isn't easy - I only just did this, after spending a few years saving and investing. And look what I discovered - what I thought I was doing was quite different from what I was actually doing.